You know those magazine product "shootouts" that just give you a bunch of specs and dreck from the latest product adverts? This isn't one of those. These are pedals I have used or at least viewed up close and personal, measured, thrashed, and generally abused. No, I didn't compare every platform pedal out there, but certainly enough to give you a couple of recommendations and impressions.
First off, I don't ride clipless pedals, so you're not going to see me reviewing them. I have big wide feet and 99% of the bike shoes out there won't even hold three of my toes, much less an entire footsy. I also ride places. If I want to hit a trail I usually ride there. I might run an errand or two on the way back. I commute. I have no interest in hauling around an extra pair of shoes everywhere I go. So it's all platform pedals all the time in my world. Even on road bikes, though those are smaller touring type pedals for the most part.
Ten or twelve years ago the clipless de-evolution had taken hold and you could hardly find a set of platform pedals outside of BMX mailorder places and you were just hoping they were as good as the picture looked like they might be. In those days I was a big fan of the Odyssey Shark Bite cage pedals which are long defunct. Now we've got platform pedals coming out our ears. I swear there are at least 100 models to choose from. Where to start? Well, hopefully this will help you out a little more than just counting grams on a website.
The pedals fall into two categories: BMX/Mountain and Touring/Urban.
In the BMX/MTB category we have: Atomlab Pimplite WRX; Black Ops Torqulite UL; Crank Brothers 50/50 3; Flybikes Ruben; Tioga Surefoot 8; VP Components VP-001; Xpedo MX Force.
In the Touring/Urban section we've got: Genetic Urban Pro; MKS Touring Lite; MKS FD-7 Folding Pedals; MKS Sylvan Touring; WTB Momentum Grease Guard; Xpedo Traverse.
BMX/MTBAtomlab Pimplite WRX: If you don't have anything good to say, don't say anything at all is probably good advice. But the fact is, I found the Pimplites so disappointing I just can't help it. Not only is the name stupid, the pedal faces are poorly machined and full of little pits with a shabby finish. The spinning action is shockingly slow, tight and, as a friend said "they feel like sh*t." The I-Glide bushings do anything but glide. Why this pedal runs $122 I will never understand.
Black Ops Torquelite UL: (about $100, 400 grams) These were first recommended to me by Jon over at Thursday Bikes. Jon built me my first handmade bike and is also a hell of a BMX racer even though he's probably in his 60's. He makes the nationals as a contender more often than I make them as a spectator. So when he recommends things I listen. As usual, he's right, this a freakin' fine pedal. Durable for years, smooth spinning excellent bearings, nice and wide (but not too wide) and if you care about colors, they come in black, green silver, red and blue.
Flybikes Ruben: (about $90, 454 g for the new model) I bought my first pair of pedales Ruben (as the Spanish Flybikes page calls them) some six years ago. The've been put through the ringer with mud, rain, crashes, bashes, rain, sleet and more rain. They were stolen & horribly abused (along with a bike that I finally got back) and beat to crud by some crappy thieves. Then they were ridden through a bunch more rain, mud, snow and snot. At this point they look like it too. The finish is ground off in more places than it isn't, but the pins are all still in place, the bearings spin free as a giveaway Frisbee and really, I have nothing to complain about.
Crank Brothers 50/50 3: (about $90, 433g) Apparently these are called 50/50s because their half aluminum (outer side where the hits happen) and half polycarbonate. The 2nd generation didn't thrill me and the looks aren't my style, but the 3rd generation pedals are smooooooth. I mean really smooth. I didn't actually know such smoothness existed. Seriously. Now I'm a big 200 pound plus thrasher of a guy, so this level of smoothness isn't really required for me. But if you're light, into precision bearings, and you can tolerate theie looks, 50/50 3s are dang good.
Tioga Surefoot 8: (about $60, 265g) The least expensive and lightest pedals on this list, yet totally not recommended unless you're a petite asian woman. These pedals are freaking tiny. Diminutive. Miniscule. Wee. Lilliputian even. The only thing I'm sure of with the Surefoot 8 is that it is totally overshadowed by the average foot. It's like saving weight by putting yourself on a 14" frame when you need a 21" frame. My wife is 5'4" and wears a women's size 7 shoe. She thinks these pedals are too small and I think she's right. If you're looking for a platform pedal for road use these would be fine and they do take a toe clip. I just don't think they're really off-road platform pedals.
VP Components VP-001: (about $65, 360g) Love these. They're thin, light, strong, smooth, and look pretty good too. Each pedal has 12 pins per side for killer grip. I've only had them for a few months, so I can't vouch for the longitudinal wear issues, but for the first few hundred miles I have not a single complaint. These pedals are just about as wide as they come, so if you're worried about cornering clearance, you might want something a skosh smaller. But I corner pretty tight and don't have any problems. I'd feel good about the VP-001s if I'd paid twice as much for 'em. These are pretty much the lightest full sized platforms you can get that are also plenty strong. Four thumbs up.
Xpedo MX Force: (about $80, 408g) Love these too. These have been my winter pedals two years in a row and they're still just about perfect. In Oregon's we winters, that's saying something. Despite the fact that they're magnesium, they're a bit heavier than the VP-001s. They're thicker too, but not abnormally thick. Each pedal has 8 pins per side and the heads are a bit smoother than some others. So the grip is not as extreme. That also makes them a bit kinder on your body when you whack one upside your shin. If you want a bit less grip, go with these. If you want a bit more, go with the VPs.
Touring/Urban
Genetic Urban Pro: (about $50, 240g) These look really nice in their one color, gunmetal grey. They're really quite a decent set of pedals for dry weather travel. For wet (and we all know wet sometimes sneaks up on us) they're a bit too slick. They are toe clip compatible and I suppose that would help. I wish the teeth on the cage were sharper.
MKS Touring Lite: (about $55, 320g) It's hard to say anything bad about anything from MKS. They just make nice stuff. I'm planning a 400 mile ride down the Oregon Coastal Highway this fall and I'll probably ride these. They've got loose ball bearings, but don't let that scare you. Even in the constant rain I've never had to work on them even after thousands of miles. A little Phil waterproof grease or even that nasty smelling boat trailer bearing grease will hook you up for longer than you can imagine. BTW, they're toe clip and strap compatible and look super.
MKS FD-7 Folding Pedals: (about $60, 402g) Yep, they fold. The idea is that they're easy to ship. They're also great when you live in a 7th floor walkup in NYC with super narrow staircases because you don't gouge your neighbor's face off. Of course, when you live in a 7th floor walkup in NYC, sometimes you want to gouge your neighbor's face off with a bike pedal. But that's usually at 3AM, not when you're going up the stairs. This pedal is also a favorite of my wife's because she folds hers down when she puts her bike away and that means she doesn't shin-bark herself when she walks past it. Otherwise, same great quality as any of the top-end MKS pedals. They could use a little more grip in my opinion. If you need a folder, go with this one. Othewise, stick with the cheaper, lighter, gripper MKS products.
MKS Sylvan Touring: (about $35, 360g): A lot of people these days seem to think of the Sylvan pedals and kind of a budget version of the Touring Lite. But aside from weighing an oreo or two more than their more costly cousin, they are not a lesser pedal. Aestheically they're pretty much an old Campagnolo pedal and they're shiny. If you want a shiny pedal get the Sylvan. If you want a matte finish, go with the Touring Lite. Infintely toe clip and strappable. They also come in more costly versions now, one with lovely copper faces and one with a chrome plated boron spindle. The boron spindle (other than being kind of interesting because boron is produced soley by cosmic ray ray spallation) doesn't seem worthwhile to me given that it both costs and weighs more. Plus it comes with dull greyish faceplates that don't look as good as the polished or copper ones.
WTB Momentum Grease Guard: (about $35, 286g) A decent enough little pedal with grease ports to keep things all lubified. They're visually quite similar to the Dimension Pro Mountain pedals I had several years ago. I happen to think they're too small and the real draw is that they're lighter. But by the time you put on toe clips and straps they'll weigh and cost more than the MKS Touring lite which have better grip and don't really need the clips and straps.
Xpedo Traverse XCF03AC: ($??, 210g) Xpedo makes a bunch of pedals that feature the monniker "traverse" and many of them are weird X shaped travesties of taste. The one's I'm talking about are the little normal looking ones with the faux titanium finish. I got mine on ebay and they were shipped from Asia. They're pretty good really, but definitely too small for my feet. They're also ridiculously hard to find and probably not worth the effort. There are plenty of good pedals out there that are a big enough to give you a good perch. Again, if you have tiny feet and are weight obsessed maybe it's okay and I'll sell you mine (which are in near mint condition) for $30 Otherwise stick with something more substantial.
single speeds for achy knees
My 42nd birthday approaches. At this point I've got well over 3o years of sometimes not-so-smart riding under my belt, up my sleeve, and possibly down my pants. What this means, for all practical purposes, is not that I'm a far superior rider. It means that the collective bangs, bashes, crashes, creaks and tweaks are beginning to take their toll. For me it's the knees. One of these days they'll have put some fancy titanium joints in me. But until then I have to take care of what I've got.
For the past 7 years or so I've mostly ridden a couple of single speeds, with an occasional jaunt on a tourer with bar end shifters. Suddenly, last fall, I decided to rebuild my favorite old rigid mountain bike with all updated modern gear. It's the first trigger-shifting bike I've ridden in quite some time. By February, I had my first knee injury in ages. I should have seen it coming.
Why? Because I was always in just the right gear. Sound crazy? Well, it ain't. Instant shifting into a truckload of different gears means the rider can almost always maintain essentially the same level of pressure on the pedals. Going up hill becomes a lot like going downhill in terms of the stress it puts on joints. And the constant pressure with no change may be great for efficiency in racing, but not so much for just riding when speed really doesn't matter so much.
When you ride a single speed you're almost never in exactly the right gear. Sometimes you pedal hard and slow and sometimes you spin like wild. If you're getting a little creaky in the joints, that helps to prevent repetitive stress injuries.
Now, I'm a bit of a stomper. I always have been. In days of yore I couldn't get a high enough gear on a standard MTB drivetrain. And the fact that I'm always a gear or three too high is definitely part of the problem. I could certainly learn (couldn't I?) to shift regularly into a gear that's 3 lower than the usual and that would be better, if not quite perfect. But it's awfully hard to reprogram that kind of thing.
If you're having that problem, a nice single speed might help. Give it a shot. If you already have a bike you love, the ENO eccentric hub from White Industries is truly a thing of beauty and lets you single-ize your bike without modifying your frame or using a clunky tensioner. The folks at BikeMan built me an ENO wheel a couple of years ago and it has run beautifully all along.
If you can't go the ss route because of the local terrain or because you just can't bear the thought, try going with one of the new-ish cranksets like the FSA Comet (or anything else that has something like a 27/39 double setup). They don't have a granny gear, but they also don't have a 44 toother either. You'll spend most of your time on the 27 and probably find it quite pleasant.
Rigid 269er Conversion
So you’ve got an old mountain bike sitting around your house that you used to think was the bomb, but now it’s just a bomb. Sure the frame is great, but the suspension fork has gone the way of my belly. It’s old and saggy and really nobody wants to look at it anymore including you. So it remains hidden from site in the garage or under the basement stairs or maybe on the back porch (your bike, not my belly).
What’s a bike lover to do? You don’t feel like shelling out $800 or more for a new fork that’s just going to lose its appeal in a couple of years and leave you feeling guilty again.
Enter the 26” rigid fork with a 29”wheel. What? You can’t do that without messing up the geometry, can you?
Chances are, you can. If you do it right.
What we want to end up with is a higher axle and a shorter fork that combine to equal the same distance from the ground to the headset that the bike was originally intended for. Thus we haven't tilted back the frame, changed the trail, or altered the effective frame angles.
Plus you can shave 1200 grams off the front end of your bike in the process! It's a pretty good rule of thumb that you pay at least a buck for every gram you lose so think if this as a 1200 dollar upgrade for three or four hundred bucks. If your old bike already has disc brakes it’s super easy because you don’t have to worry about the brake pads needing to line up with a larger rim that will be at a different height. If you use V brakes or cantis it’s more effort and expense, but occasionally do-able if you have a little skill with a torch and file, but it's easier to just go with a cable actuated disc setup in the front and leave the rim brakes in the rear.
Here’s the deal. Say your fugly old fork has an axle to crown measurement of 440mm (more on how to measure that later). That’s where we're going to start in order to be sure that the geometry of the bike remains in tact. If you end up with something too long the frame tilts backwards on the axis of the rear axle and the end result is more trail, slacker effective frame angles, and a bottom bracket that's super high. If the fork is too short, the opposite happens and you might even end up whacking your pedals on the pavement.
Either way the bike won’t steer like it used to. (For the purposes of this blurb we’re going to assume you like the way it handled before. If not, come back later for another yack about changing the geometry without altering the frame.)
A 29” wheel is about 64mm larger than a 26” wheel (if you do the conversion to inches you’ll probably think that sounds wrong but it isn’t because a 29” wheel isn’t really 29 inches in diameter and a 26” wheel isn’t 26 inches in diameter, but try not to freak out about that right now). Take that 64mm measurement and divide it in half. That makes 32mm. We’re dividing it in half because that’s how much higher the center of the front axle will be when you put the larger wheel on. Note that you need to use close to the same width 29” tire as you used on the old 26” wheel or there will be some slight differences in steering again because wider tires are also taller.
Ultimately, we end up with the approximate axle to crown height (408MM) we want for the new rigid fork. The math is like this:
440 axle to crown
-32 from the increase in axle height
= 408 (mm)
Now all we need to do is find a fork that's close to that length, (there are quite a few 410mms out there), pop the fork on the bike, put on the new wheel, install the disc brakes and whoopee! You’ve got the bump absorbing, obstacle clearing power of the larger 29” wheel paired with the joy of the far lighter rigid fork and no worries about maintenance or dialing in fork dampening.
Yes, the 29" wheel/tire combo weighs a skosh more than an equivalent 26" combo, but not a lot and certainly not as much as that silly 5 pound suspension fork in anodized Gatorade green. In my own conversion, the new setup is 1,226 grams lighter according to my Alpine scale.
But wait, what about the rim brake crowd? Yes, that’s me most of the time. In fact, I’m so old, many of my mountain bikes run cantilever brakes and I kinda like it that way.
There were a couple of issues to deal with since I wanted to stick with rim brakes. The big one is that the brake mounts were not at the right height. I had to saw the brake mounts off and file the fork smooth. Then I brazed on new mounts in the correct location. If you want to do this kind of conversion yourself, avoid the trouble and get the Kona 2 disc fork, a disc compatible 29" front wheel and a cable actuated linear pull disc brake. Assuming you were already running V brakes, your current levers should work just fine. If you were running cantis, you need a new lever because canti’s require different levers than V brakes or mechanical discs. You could either replace the rear canti with a V brake (why bother), or do what I do and ride with a mismatched pair of levers. It won’t kill you and it looks cool. It says “I work on this friggin' thing myself and I don’t need no stinkin' matchy matchy parts because I’m a manly/womanly/transgendered cyclist of doom!” Or something like that.
You may be able to get what you need for the conversion from your local bike shop, but if your LBS is mostly BS and doesn't want to talk to you about axle to crown height and doesn't get what you're doing (or why you'd do it instead of buying the latest blingey $2,000 crap from them) you can always talk to my friends (who I don’t know personally but they’re still my friends) at Bikeman.com. I like them. They’re really the folks at Bath Cycle and Ski in Woolwich, Maine. They’ve had what I need for many a year now and they have darned good service too. There was a time when V brakes had gotten popular and cyclocross hadn’t yet, so nobody was making or using cantilever brakes. You couldn’t find a front cable hanger for love nor money in those days and I was exiled in South Texas desperately needing my bike back in working order and not wanting to buy new brakes and new levers (which were annoyingly attached to my shifters which I'd have had to buy new as well). Bikeman came to the rescue and I’ve pretty much been a major fan ever since.
Project 2 forks from Kona are a really good buy and come in a few different lengths. The 410 worked well for me, but this is the absolute shortest fork you'd want to try to stuff a 29" wheel into. It has the minimum height clearance for a 2 inch wide 29er tire (the WTB Vulpine in this case which has minimal knobs). Forks from Vicious Cycles come in several different lengths with disc mounts. They’re more costly than the Konas, but they’re super nice (I sometimes put them on customer's bikes but usually don't spend the money for myself) and you can get them in bare steel (directly from viciouscycles.com) if you feel like painting the fork yourself. There are also several carbon mountain forks out there and some even have adjustable canti mounts. But frankly I’m reluctant to recommend them. I’m a hefty fella and I’ve been known to ding a few tubes in my time. Carbon doesn’t ding. It cracks, it snaps, it shatters all to heck. I stay clear of the stuff myself.
Don't worry too terribly much about making sure the fork is exactly the perfect height. A difference of 10mm in either direction should be just fine. If you really feel like worrying about it, think of it this way: If you like twitchier steering go with the shorter fork and if you like more stable steering go with the longer one. If you plan to ride this bike at 35mph or more, go with the longer fork for more trail which is a good thing at high speeds.
Oh yeah, measuring that fork height! I promised earlier to come back to that. If you already have a good grip on how to do that, cool. If not, the easiest thing to do is take the wheel off and pull out the quick release. Then re-install the quick release without the wheel. Slip that little chromed clip at the end of your measuring tape center of the QR rod and measure up to where your headset begins. That isn't a strictly perfect measurement, but it's more than good enough for our purposes.
Good night, and good luck!
A few words about handlebar width
I have to admit that the recent trend towards absurdly narrow bars has me flummoxed. Back in the early to mid 1990s when there weren't any bike lanes to speak of and I needed to slip quickly in and out of tight spaces, I occasionally customized a handlebar by slicing a couple inches off each end. One spot in particular on my daily route where I had to squeeze between a wall and a lamp post was the original inspiration for pulling out the saw. I get that kind of thing.
But recently I saw a fellow cruising through downtown on a fixie with bars so narrow his pinkies were flapping in the breeze. I mean the guy literally couldn't fit his hands between the stem and the outside edge of the grip, which had also been sheared off to fit the tiny remnant of a handlebar.
So here's the deal, you're in such a hurry, and such an aggressive god or goddess of a rider that you absolutely must be capable of tear-assing down the road between the Fed Ex truck and the Sassy's cab in order to shave 12 seconds off every courier job of the day to make a decent living. I'm glad that isn't the kind of thing I have to do, but okay, lets say that's your gig. In terms of fitting through tight spaces, there is really no advantage to having bars narrower than your ass. You may be able to squeeze your shoulders together (and fit someplace you probably shouldn't) but you can't squeeze your hips together that way unless you're Mr. Fantastic or Elasto-gal.
But why not have the ultra-narrow bars for ease of storage and for carrying your bike up to that 5th floor walk up? I did that for years, so I know it's a lot easier with a small bike. The problem is the hands, the wrists, the shoulders, and the back. You might be able to get away with pulling every part of your upper body toward the headset at funky angles for a while, maybe even a long while, but 9 times out of ten you'll reach a point of major discomfort.
The other problem is that those narrow bars are misleading. If that's how you're gauging thw space you'll fit into, you're going to get squished. I learned years ago that it was a bad idea to let me drive a fast car. It just encouraged me to drive like a jackass. Same goes for the narrow handlebars.
These days, I like my bars just a skosh narrower than the dimples in my shoulders. It keeps the hands at a good angle and actually helps keep the upper back strain (right between the shoulder blades) to a minimum as well. Plus it's easy to see that if the bars won't fit, neither will I.
My advice is this: start with a flat bar about the width of your shoulders and if that feels too wide start by taking a half inch off each end. Then try it again. You can always take away more if you need to, but you can't add it back. And for heaven's sake, give your poor little pinkie a nice safe perch.
Is cycling dangerous?
Well, yeah. But dammit, Jim, so is walking. I suspect that along with crumby strip joints, Portland has more sidewalk upheaval per capita than any other city in the U.S. When it's dark out and the ground is covered with leaves, those sidewalks will jump right up and knock the crud out of you.
The result, a boatload of broken fingers, toes, and elbows. Some of those fingers look like this :
Yes, that's my swollen paw up there complete with the surgeon's YES scrawled across the top with an arrow pointing at the small finger so as to make sure they didn't operate on the wrong one. Apparently that's the technical term for the pinkie, small finger. Who knew?
What seems to have been good luck is that I didn't crack my elbow. What wasn't so good is that the knuckle joint shattered. Hence the 3 hour fiestaval of surgery. Also the six weeks of absolutely no use of Mr. Lefty under any circumstances. The keyboarding with one hand ain't so bad, but those Levi's button fly jeans are hell.
The result, a boatload of broken fingers, toes, and elbows. Some of those fingers look like this :
Yes, that's my swollen paw up there complete with the surgeon's YES scrawled across the top with an arrow pointing at the small finger so as to make sure they didn't operate on the wrong one. Apparently that's the technical term for the pinkie, small finger. Who knew?
What seems to have been good luck is that I didn't crack my elbow. What wasn't so good is that the knuckle joint shattered. Hence the 3 hour fiestaval of surgery. Also the six weeks of absolutely no use of Mr. Lefty under any circumstances. The keyboarding with one hand ain't so bad, but those Levi's button fly jeans are hell.
Halloween Bat Bike
Okay, it's Halloween, and that's my favorite holiday. It's darn near the only holiday can tolerate. This year I'm celebrating Halloween with the completion of the Bat Bike. Technically I delivered it to the owner yesterday. She got to take it for a spin last night, but since she'll be too busy to ride this week I get to have the Bat Bike back for a few days and a couple of photo ops. Good thing too, because today is the first day since the bike got painted that there's enough light outside to take a decent photo. The bat silhouette on the headtube is actually a cutout done with tiny needle files. Again, it's basically a big BMX bike with gears. This time a simple 9 speed drivetrain, the old school Odyssey Black Widow cranks and some really nice 5 piece Redline bars finish out the package.
Big Bike
A while back I was asked to build a bike for Alan "crankbender" Holmgreen. It took me a while, but I think the results were worth it. Alan is a big guy. I mean pro linebacker big, so the bike needed to be stout. I went with a little inspiration from the old Mert Lawwill Pro Cruiser, one of the first real off-road bikes I ever saw. I was calling this one the Holmgreen Machine until Alan took it into his local bike shop for build up. They just wrote on the work order BIG BIKE, and that's exactly what it is. A big BMX bike with disc brakes and a 27 speed drive train. The lower top tube is actually higher than the top tube on my personal mountain bike. Happy trails, Alan.
ultra-light pedals?
I came across some adverts for Xpedo pedals the other day and took a quick look at the CF-1 (a.k.a. C-Force) model on their website. I was curious about how they managed to make the CF-1s weigh in at a third less than my usual MKS Touring Lite pedals so I ordered a pair for $30 on eBay (the only place I could find them). They had to be drop shipped from Taiwan, so I was a bit apprehensive and wondered it I'd just tossed my digital money into the digital void. But about a week and a half later the postie showed up at my door with a padded envelope and a form for me to sign.I handed to the envelope to my wife who said "there are two pedals in there???" I had to admit, they were light.
I sliced the envelope, popped open the wee box inside and was immediately struck by the most notable feature of the CF-1s. They're tiny. Less pedal, less weight. Xpedo has also whittled away a few grams by smoothing out the flats of the spindle where you'd normally use a pedal wrench. You can only install or remove these little guys by using a hex wrench from the back side of the cranks (a la some Shimano clipless jobs). The spindle also narrows down more than usual towards the outboard side of the pedal which probably reduces the weight by an additional skosh.
The workmanship is of good quality, the sealed bearings are smooth, and the pedal body machined out of a single piece of aluminum has a nice look to it. Other than the mini size, my only complaint is that they don't seem to come in a polished version. They're painted silver (which they call "ti") or black.
If you have petite feet (and I don't) the CF-1s might be just the ticket. I happen to have big flat EEEE tootsies so narrow pedal width can be a bit of a problem for me. I'll have to take 'em for a few dozen spins before I can really comment on that.
As for durability, I'll let you know how they hold up after a couple of months of abuse.
Winter Special !
The Community Cycling Center does a lot of great stuff. They recycle old bikes and give them new life; they give hundreds of bikes and helmets to low-income kids; they teach adults to maintain their own bikes and become safe commuters. Years ago I even took my first bike maintenance class from them.
Every December we fire up the old truck and haul load after load of kids bikes from warehouses to the CCC's event location. But this year I had to work the day job and couldn't contribute. So instead we took our Christmas present money and made a donation.
But I'm not stopping there! In order to encourage others to donate to the CCC, were having a little promotional special.
Donate $100 to Community Cycling Center during 2009 and get $100 off the purchase price of a new Velvet Cycles frame.
The details: This offer is valid only for the 2009 calendar year. Your donation to CCC must be made in 2009 and I must receive a copy of your donation receipt along with a confirmed order and your order deposit by December 31, 2009. Velvet Cycles is not affiliated with Community Cycling Center, we're just trying to do something nice for them.
Every December we fire up the old truck and haul load after load of kids bikes from warehouses to the CCC's event location. But this year I had to work the day job and couldn't contribute. So instead we took our Christmas present money and made a donation.
But I'm not stopping there! In order to encourage others to donate to the CCC, were having a little promotional special.
Donate $100 to Community Cycling Center during 2009 and get $100 off the purchase price of a new Velvet Cycles frame.
The details: This offer is valid only for the 2009 calendar year. Your donation to CCC must be made in 2009 and I must receive a copy of your donation receipt along with a confirmed order and your order deposit by December 31, 2009. Velvet Cycles is not affiliated with Community Cycling Center, we're just trying to do something nice for them.
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